COURSE - Dry Curl Cut Fundamentals

Overview:

• Begin with separating any large Curl clumps. This will help you add shape and sculpt each Curl clump.

• When you find any knots, don't pull down on them, you will only condense them, making them harder to untangle. Open the knot like you would try and open a cobweb. When you let air into the tangle, it will become easier to work through.

• Section up from the top of the head to 2cm behind the ear. Place gently in a clip in front of the ear. (both sides)

• Slide your finger from one side of the lower nape to the other and gently clip the top section away. This first section may not be the same length as the rest of the hair. Use your intuition and only lightly trim the ends for health.

• Work your way up, taking section sizes that you can manage. Begin cutting the base where it naturally falls; as you move to the outer sides, slightly overextend them. GOAL: to create a rounded shape to the base, not a straight line.

• Once above the occipital bone, you will drop the whole section down. Take a pie piece from the top of the crown to O-Bone. This will help you see a 'cut-out' view of the shape you are building. Start from the top, overextending your section to soften the edge of each cut, and choose the desired amount you wish to cut off. Then lay it back down to see the shape you have created. Now, decide if you want to add more shape(take more length off the layers.

• Progress in pie sections across the rest of the area.

• Drop the front down and section out the hairline extending to behind the ear 5cm connecting our two pieces. Section the interior of the sides away gently. Starting at the top, over-direct the hair to the opposite eyebrow/cheekbone and cut off the desired amount. Once you have cut the rest of the hairline above the forehead, continue shaping it freehand at natural fall. This is important as hairlines vary so much. 

• Drop the interior side section down and take horizontal section sizes you can manage. Draw an imaginary line from the middle of the ear up to the top of the head. Our diagonal side layers will anchor from here. Over-direct the section behind the ear to the opposite side of the head, 45degrees, then trim the desired amount off.

• Next, take the section from the front of the ear and do the same, but in the opposite direction, 135degrees. You can bring your guide from the top of the face-framing and trim the desired amount off. 

• Continue up the side of the head with a horizontal section till you reach the top. Repeat the previous step and this one on the opposite side.

• Once the layering is complete, gently comb the Curls down at the back with your fingers, and check the shape you have created. Then comb the curls forward to check your symmetry as it sits in different positions. 

• To cross-check your haircut, you will want to do two things: Firstly, pull the hair up into a loose ponytail and look at the shape and symmetry of the ponytail. If it looks off, you may need to balance your layers. Secondly, flip your client's hair over, grab a stool, look at the shape where the ends fall, and correct where needed for a symmetrical face frame. This step is done with zero tension on the curl. View the hair hanging and use a freestyle vibe.

Index:

00:46 - Curl preparation

01:30 - De-tangling

02:33 - Sectioning

03:50 - First cut - Nape

06:25 - Base Line

12:45 - Layering

18:35 - Dusting

19:10 - The front

21:40 - Face Framing

24:45 - Diagonal Side Layers

27:30 - Fast play Left side

28:17 - Rounding top layer

30:26 - Checking Symmetry

31:06 - Differing sides

32:20 - Pony tail crosscheck

33:25 - Upside-down crosscheck

34:20 - Conclusion and tips

35:40 - Don't use thinning scissors